Hola. This is Barbara, your guide to the latest cultural news from the Spanish-speaking world. Today I’d like to take you to Buenaventura, Colombia’s biggest port on the Pacific coast. Wait, what? Why should one go to Buenaventura? Isn’t it one of the most dangerous cities in Colombia, if not in all of South America? Yes, it is.
Last week, however, approximately 300 German tourists aboard the cruise ship MS Hamburg (Plantours Cruises) made history by being the first cruise ship to dock in Buenaventura, the port city. During their visit, the tourists engaged in typical cruise activities, strolling along the Malecón, enjoying a traditional lunch, exploring a nearby Natural Reserve, and supposedly concluding their excursion at an artisanal market for souvenir shopping. This noteworthy event garnered national media attention, and I'd like to share the coverage with you.
The port town of Buenaventura
The Port of Buenaventura, located in the Valle del Cauca region of Colombia, is a significant hub for international trade.
It manages 75 % of Colombia’s internationally traded goods, like sugar, coffee, and commodities. It greatly impacts the Colombian economy's advancement, mainly due to the wide variety of bulk cargoes that this port receives. Its geographical location - relative to the Panama Canal - makes it one of Colombia's seaports of great interest for trade with the European Union, the United States, and Asia. However, Buenaventura’s port income has not extended to its population. The unemployment rate is very high (68 %). The companies involved in the trading business often recruit better-skilled workers from elsewhere. Education possibilities are scarce.
People in Buenaventura often feel separated and neglected by the rest of the country, not only because of its geographical disconnection but also because of its distinctly different local culture. Bogotá and its governmental institutions seem so far away that in many parts of the economic life, gangs have taken over control. Many inhabitants go to cities like Cali, Medellín or Bogotá to flee the violence and despair and find a decent job. Drug trafficking, extortion, gang violence, a lack of public services, and a lack of education and job opportunities don’t make Buenaventura sound like a relaxed tourist resort. The Comisión de la Verdad wraps the situation up adequately:
This contradiction between a prosperous port that brings wealth to the nation and a population mired in poverty and violence is part of the context that explains the persistence of the armed conflict in the territory (Caso57 / Violencia urbana en Buenaventura - read the whole thorough investigation, it’s worth it).
The media controversy
If even the locals are leaving in search of a better life elsewhere, one may question why tourists should choose to visit. Journalist Néstor Morales brought to light in an interview with Andrés Felipe Mesa Hoyos, COO of the travel company Colombia57 Tours Travel & Logistic, what many individuals from the Cordillera Central might be thinking but hesitate to express openly about tourism in Buenaventura, Colombia.
Aquí nadie va a pasar vacaciones en Buenaventura. Nadie piensa en las fiestas de fin de año, señor Mesa, ni usted, ni yo, ni nadie, por más que su gente sea muy buena… (Nobody here is going to spend holidays in Buenaventura. No one is thinking about the end-of-year holidays, Mr Mesa, not you, not me, not anyone, no matter how nice the people are... )
Some, mostly from Bogotá, like Oscar Giraldo Torres, chimed in, adding that Buenaventura had no infrastructure for high-end tourism, a limited number of adequate hotel offers, and a lack of access to sites of tourist interest. Good infrastructure is indeed key to sustainable development and the protection of nature, and it probably won’t start before the first tourists come in. Of course, Morales’s statement caused a lot of rage on social media because it was considered classist, if not even racist. 85 % of the local population identifies as being of Afro-Colombian origin.
The natural paradise and its potential
Suppose you consider other criteria than the economy, like the rich wildlife of sea and jungles, the beauty of the beaches along the Pacific coast, the food, the music, ancestral traditions, the relaxed atmosphere, and the friendly people. In that case, you may find the statement from above disturbing. If you are interested in exploring the natural beauty of the area, I recommend visiting X and discovering an abundance of stunning landscapes under the hashtag #VacacionesEnBuenaventura. Numerous X users have shared their photo memories of vacations in Buenaventura, contradicting Morales's earlier statement. You will come across captivating shots of sunsets, delectable seafood, vibrant greenery, and captivating whale sightings. In the interim, Morales has issued an apology for his earlier statement.
Overall, Buenaventura has immense potential as a sustainable tourist destination thanks to its natural richness and cultural diversity. The outlook seems to indicate that the future is bright. The port authority of Buenaventura expects 334.000 passengers from Norway, the USA, the UK, Switzerland, Germany, and Monaco in the upcoming season.
Risks of cruise tourism
The think tank Colombia Risk Analysis has a good overview of the economic outlook for the region including tourism. They confirm that there is a lot of good potential for the region and that domestic investors should pay more attention to the current developments, highlighted by the arrival of the MS Hamburg. They, just like I do, see security as the region’s biggest challenge.
As we have seen, the start of cruise tourism can have economic benefits for the region. However, it is important to avoid the risks that are usually associated with cruise tourism to underdeveloped regions. Cruise ships and the tourists they bring have a negative environmental impact. Apart from all the fuel they need to get there in the first place, they may dump toxic waste into the waters, fill the air with carbon dioxide, and harm fragile habitats and the quality of life of the local people. The presence of cruise ships can also lead to temporary overcrowding during the tourist season.
If those responsible for the trips do not use the opportunity to create jobs for the local people, tourism might leave the location worse off than before the project. How can the locals be engaged so they see what’s in for them? Finally, I think it is the state’s responsibility to ensure that this new potential line of business does not end up like many other businesses in the country, namely in the extortionate and violent hands of clans, gangs, and bandits. Institutional weakness, if not absence, is tourist’s biggest threat in the region.
Despite all these risks, I wish that Buenaventura lives up to what it’s called: Good luck and fortune!
Have you ever been to Buenaventura and its surroundings? Let us know how you liked it.
I’ll be back once more before the Christmas break. Have a good time.